A day trip to Poughkeepsie

First, I was intrigued by the Native American name. Looking for its meaning, I found out that it is a mispronunciation of a Native American word referring to the location of a spring of fresh water that was used by the first travelers as a rest stop on the trail that ran along the river. Poughkeepsie is derived from ”uppuqui ipis ing”, uppuqui pronounced oo-poo-kee, and it means ”the reed-covered lodge by the little water-place”. [source]

Then, came an episode of the ”Great American Railroad Journeys”, a BBC travel documentary in which Michael Portillo crosses the United States by train using an 1879 copy of Appleton’s Guidebook. In this episode, Portillo makes a stop on his way to Albany, to walk across the former Poughkeepsie-Highland Railroad Bridge, built in 1889.

In Appleton’s time the bridge existed on paper only but, just ten years later there it was, the first Hudson River rail crossing north of New York City, intended to move mostly freight from Midwest to New England. In peak times, as many as 50 trains a day used to cross the bridge, but by 1974, when it was destroyed by fire, the traffic had dropped to one train a day.

The fire may have been extinguished but the damaged bridge remained closed, in disrepair for 35 years, until October 2009 when it was reopened as Walkway Over the Hudson with funding by the State and Federal government bodies responsible for historic preservation, private philanthropic organisations, but mainly the initiative and extensive support  by local residents.

At 1,28 miles – just over 2 km long, it claims the first place as the longest, elevated pedestrian bridge in the world. Open daily from 7 am to sunset, easily reached from Manhattan: a two-hour trip running mostly alongside the Hudson, on Metro-North from Grand Central Terminal.

Attention, however, you need to plan accordingly: except for the obvious breezy conditions one may expect on a bridge, it can get really hot (as in boiling) on this particular one. There is nowhere to hide from the sun and relief will come only once you’ve crossed on either side and especially Highland, where the Hudson Valley Rail Trail continues for miles under the welcome leafy shade.

August 13th, 2017

Zender’s Winterreise || Jazz @ Lincoln

It was August but Winterreise was about to take us on a journey back in time, through Hans Zender’s Dark Mirror; I had a feeling it would be dark and cool, just what one needs in August in the City – and I was right.

Schubert’s Winterreise is a work shockingly ahead of its time, with a strongly expressionist flavor and prescient hints at the progress of music into the 20th century. Zender’s interpretation brings out and clarifies these extraordinary aspects and creates sonic associations for a modern audience. The rich cabaret feel draws on elements already there, and allows for a reflection on the piece itself—it is a work of art about a work of art.” (source)

Before looking into ”The Dark Mirror”, we lingered around the Ertegun Jazz Hall Of Fame, a space honouring the life and work of jazz legends with photos of the men and women who dedicated their lives to jazz, and a video series on the media wall, designed and animated by Nate Milton. Walking by, it occurred to me that I have yet to discover New York’s jazz scene. Now, a year-and-a-half later, I’m still in the dark and not sure where to start. If you have a recommendation, please do drop me a line in the comments – I would love to find out! 

Jazz at Lincoln Center

August 12th, 2017

Puppy’s First Birthday

*Recent Resident Posting* (September 2018) on the bulletin board of my building’s website:

Title: Puppy’s First Birthday Party Meet-up

Hi guys! My chihuahua is turning one and I’m throwing her a party this Saturday 9/22 at 11am in Washington Square Park! Check out the attached facebook event link. It would be awesome to see some familiar faces there and just let our dogs have fun! Please text me with any questions (number deleted). RSVP on Facebook or text me so I know how many party favors to bring. 🙂

**

Photos from a walk in Hell’s Kitchen. It was not the same man but it could well have been…

August 12th, 2017

Take me to Church*

The City may be celebrating the most wonderful time of the year but December usually finds me exhausted, ready for hibernation, in absence of which a fair amount of introspection will have to do. One more year has just been added into my bag of experiences and, amazing it has been, I feel the weight. It was perhaps a cosmic coincidence or I was just subconsciously seeking to get into the ”Christmas Spirit” rather than sinking deeper into my ”Christmas Blues” that brought me to church not once, but three times this month. As an atheist, church is not part of my usual routine, but a sequence of seemingly unrelated events managed to get me there – thrice.  Emphasis added on ”seemingly”, because all three events had something in common: music & song. Ethereal, transcendent, lyrical, divine song.

First, it was Ambient Church:

Group Immersions into modern contemplative and devotional music through site-specific audio and visual performance // is their Facebook statement and I couldn’t describe it better.

In celebration of 25 years of American ambient label Kranky, this nomadic audiovisual experience traveled to four cities – Portland, Los Angeles and Chicago, before coming to St. Ann & the Holy Trinity  (est.1847) in Brooklyn Heights, on December 15th. The headliner was progressive power trio of Brooklyn Forma but my personal luminary of the night was Christina Vantzou, a Kansas City, Missouri born composer and filmmaker of Greek descent based (of all places) in Brussels, Belgium.

You can listen to Christina’s dreamy, abstract music on her website and her latest work, album No. 4 here.

Then, on December 22nd, came Paul Winter’s 39th Annual Winter Solstice Celebration, a multi-media event featuring musicians, vocalists and the 25 dancers and drummers of the Forces of Nature Dance Theatre. This annual phantasmagoria, which I’ve only just discovered, aims to offer a contemporary take on ancient solstice rituals, when people gathered together on the longest night of the year to welcome the return of the sun and the birth of the new year. The mere fact that it takes place in the largest cathedral in the world, makes it an unforgettable experience, albeit a bit overwhelming, in my view. Except for the howling – that was awesome. Click on the video below, to listen.

Finally, on Christmas eve, there was caroling in Gramercy Park. Where, once a year for a single hour, the exclusive park normally open to a small circle of key holders only, welcomes everyone with open doors and Christmas Carols sang by the choir of Calvary-St. George’s Church, a choir so melodic we had to follow them to their next round at the Christmas Eve Service, inside the church. I thought we would stay for a couple of songs, then leave quietly. Instead, we stayed for the whole service in what became one of the most uplifting experiences we could possibly hope for, this Christmas. Which goes to demonstrate that when religion is inclusive rather than imposing, and the church keeps up to date and young, it can only gain – if not devotees, at least a couple of new friends. 

*Title borrowed from Hozier’s homonym song.

Christmas Eve 2018

And the winner is…

(Unsurprisingly) Bergdorf Goodman!

There should be an ”International Awards for Shop Xmas Windows” ceremony somewhere, if only to affirm that outdoing this B&G extravaganza is practically impossible. Except of course by B&G, who are somehow outdoing themselves every time! Hard to believe one can actually buy some of these items inside (I could probably afford a small box of macarons from Ladurée)…

Manhattan, 5th Avenue

December 9th, 2017

What’s Happening…?

… I hear you ask. The City has been hit, once again, by a jolly wave of Christmas Fever. There are parties and ice sculptures, young Santa wannabes and grumpy valet Snowmen, tea and sympathy (and cookies) with curious Creatures, Christmas trees in public spaces, earworm inducing sugary tunes and lights – zillions of dazzling lights everywhere!

HAPPY HOLIDAYS EVERYONE! 

December 24th, 2018