“Camp is ‘those men and women…leaking laughter and tears while reliving their favorite nuances from…Off-key strains of Somewhere over the Rainbow.'” —J. Bryan Lowder, 2013
Camp: Notes on Fashion @The Metropolitan Museum of Art, paired with Bridget Riley’s painting from the Met collection.
June 1st, 2019
“Since camp involves the refusal to grow up, it sees aging as a particularly unattractive process which it is important to carry out with good humor.” —Mark Booth, 1983
Walter Van Beirendonck ensemble A/W 2001-2 & Comme des Garçons coat, S/S 2018
Camp: Notes on Fashion @The Metropolitan Museum of Art
June 1st, 2019
“Camp is the psychopathology of affluence.”
“Camp is things-being-what-they-are-not.” —Susan Sontag 1964
Undercover “Ensembles,” S/S 2018
“The horror genre, in particular, is susceptible to a camp interpretation. Not all horror films are camp, of course; only those which make the most stylish conventions for expressing instant feeling, thrills, sharply defined personality, outrageous and ‘unacceptable’ sentiments, and so on.” —Jack Babuscio, 1977
Camp: Notes on Fashion @The Metropolitan Museum of Art
June 1st, 2019
By Thierry Mugler. A designer ahead of his time.
Thierry Mugler, Venus, A/W 1995-96
Camp: Notes on Fashion @The Metropolitan Museum of Art
June 1st, 2019
“Camp is a means by which cultivated taste is deliberately thrown into reverse so that aesthetic absurdities become desirable.” —Scott Byrd quoting John Canaday, 1968
“Camp transforms what was ugly yesterday into today’s object of aesthetic pleasure.” –Umberto Eco, 2007
From Camp: Notes on Fashion, The Costume Institute’s spring 2019 exhibition at The Met. Susan Sontag’s 1964 essay ”Notes on ‘Camp”’ provided the framework, and 250 objects dating from the seventeenth century to the present took care of the entertainment.
The Metropolitan Museum of Art
June 1st, 2019
Alessandro Michele (Italian, b. 1972) for Gucci
Ensemble, Spring 2017
Men’s collection
January 30th, 2019
Taking its rightful place alongside more traditional forms of art.
Alessandro Michele (Italian, b. 1972) for Gucci
Ensemble F/W 2016
Stephen Jones (British, b. 1957)
”Show” Hat, F/W 2013 ”Art School”
Perspex Plexiglas
Deborah Williams Remington (American, 1930-2010)
Dover, 1975
Oil on canvas
Stephen Jones (British, b. 1957)
”Sewing” Hat, S/S 2018
Printed cotton with satin cord and metal bodkin
Rei Kawakubo (Japanese, b. 1942)
Comme des Garçons, S/S 2018
Rei Kawakubo (Japanese, b. 1942)
Comme des Garçons, S/S 2018
Rei Kawakubo (Japanese, b. 1942)
Comme des Garçons, S/S 2018
Rei Kawakubo (Japanese, b. 1942)
Comme des Garçons, S/S 2018
Viola Frey (American, 1933-2004)
Nude Man, 1989
Glazed ceramic
John Galliano (British, b. 1960) for Maison Margiela
Ensemble Fall 2018
Kehinde Wiley (American, b. 1977)
Marechal Floriano Peixoto (from The World Stage: Brazil Series), 2009
Oil on canvas
January 30th, 2019
Bottoms optional
#insta-moments in Manhattan
(Midtown)
August 19th, 2018
Of Earthly Delights
Dolce & Gabbana
”Penelope” wedding ensemble, S/S 2013
Valentino
Evening dress, S/S 2014
Undercover, Jun Takahashi
Ensembles, S/S 2015, printed with iconography from Hieronymus Bosch’s triptych ”The Garden of Earthly Delights”
House of Dior
Raf Simons, Evening dress, A/W 2015-16
A more abstracted interpretation of Hieronymus Bosch’s painting ”The Garden of Earthly Delights”
Valentino
Evening Dress, A/W 2015-16
Jean Paul Gaultier
‘Lumiere’, Evening ensemble, S/S 2007
Steinunn Thorarinsdottir
Armors, 2016-2018
Rick Owens
Ensemble, A/W 2015-16.
With a pee(p) hole at the crotch, Owens’ playful, subversive ”habit” evokes the popular literary stereotype of the lecherous, debauched and scandalous medieval monk, satirized by Geoffrey Chaucer in ”The Canterbury Tales” (1387-1400).
The Cloisters, Fort Tryon Park
July 14th, 2018
Well, I don’t know about the bodies but some of the gowns were heavenly, indeed! The exhibition was two-part, the main segment being at The Met on Fifth Avenue, and an annex displayed at the medieval monastic environment of The Cloisters, where the gowns seemed to have found their natural habitat, as if they had always belonged there. If I had to describe the display, setting & ambience in one word, that would have been ”sublime”.
Viktor & Rolf, ensemble, 2018 original design: A/W 1999-2000
Valentino, evening ensemble, A/W 2015-16
Philip Treacy, ”Madonna Rides Again II” hats, 1998 – 2001
House of Chanel, wedding dress, A/W 1990-91 by Karl Lagerfeld
The Unicorn in Captivity
Wool, silk and silver and gilded-silver wrapped thread
South Netherlandish, ca. 1495-1505
Altarpiece with the Virgin and Child and Saints
Master fo the Burg Weiler Altarpiece
German, Swabia, ca. 1470
Reliquary busts of female saints
South Netherlandish, Brabant, possibly Brussels, ca. 1520-20
Valentino, red silk velvet dress, S/S 2015
Thom Browne, wedding ensemble, S/S 2018
Olivier Theyskens, evening dress, S/S 1999
House of Dior ”Hyménée” wedding dress by Marc Bohan, 2018; original design: S/S 1961
House of Balenciaga, wedding dress, spring 1967
Fashion history has designated this garment by Cristobal Balenciaga the ”one-seam wedding dress.” If the dress were indeed made from a single length of fabric, it would claim a biblical source: Jesus’ seamless robe at the Crucifixion. The dress, however, is made of two pieces of fabric stitched together and it has three shaping seams – two at the shoulder and one down the centre of the back.
Grisaille Panels
French, probably Normandy, ca. 1270-80
Jean Paul Gaultier
”Regina Maris” evening ensemble, S/S 2007
House of Dior
Ensemble, S/S 2006 by John Galliano
Book of Hours
Simon Bening (1483/84 – 1561)
Tempera, gold and ink on parchment
South Netherlandish, Bruges, ca. 1530 – 1535
This tiny Book of Hours is one of Simon Bening’s prayerful jewels, intended for use at regular intervals throught the twenty-four-hour day (ideally every three hours). It was a reminder of the omnipresence of God, meant to be attached to its owner, or stored with precious possessions.
Jean-Charles de Castelbajac
Chasuble for Saint John Paul II (reigned 1978-2005), 1997
This chasuble was created for Saint John Paul II to wear on World Youth Day in 1997.
The Cloisters, Fort Tryon Park
July 14th, 2018
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