Rainbows

“Camp is ‘those men and women…leaking laughter and tears while reliving their favorite nuances from…Off-key strains of Somewhere over the Rainbow.'” —J. Bryan Lowder, 2013

Burberry, Christopher Bailey Cape, A/W 2018-19
Salvatore Ferragamo Sandal, 1938, designed for Judy Garland & Gucci, Alessandro Michele Shoe, resort 2017
Bridget Riley, Elysium, 1973/2003 – Acrylic on canvas

Camp: Notes on Fashion @The Metropolitan Museum of Art, paired with Bridget Riley’s painting from the Met collection.

June 1st, 2019

A Second Childhood

“Since camp involves the refusal to grow up, it sees aging as a particularly unattractive process which it is important to carry out with good humor.” —Mark Booth, 1983

Walter Van Beirendonck ensemble A/W 2001-2 & Comme des Garçons coat, S/S 2018

Camp: Notes on Fashion @The Metropolitan Museum of Art

June 1st, 2019

The REDЯUM Dress

“Camp is the psychopathology of affluence.”

“Camp is things-being-what-they-are-not.” —Susan Sontag 1964

Undercover “Ensembles,” S/S 2018

“The horror genre, in particular, is susceptible to a camp interpretation. Not all horror films are camp, of course; only those which make the most stylish conventions for expressing instant feeling, thrills, sharply defined personality, outrageous and ‘unacceptable’ sentiments, and so on.” —Jack Babuscio, 1977

Camp: Notes on Fashion @The Metropolitan Museum of Art

June 1st, 2019

Went Camping

“Camp is a means by which cultivated taste is deliberately thrown into reverse so that aesthetic absurdities become desirable.” —Scott Byrd quoting John Canaday, 1968

Gucci || Accessory set, pre-fall 2019
House of Moschino || Jeremy Scott || Bag A/W 2017-18 (grey synthetic leather and silver metal)
Giles Deacon || Stephen Jones || Headpiece, S/S 2012 (white ostrich feathers, white coque feathers, and orange and black crystals)
Chloé || Karl Lagerfeld || Necklace A/W 1983-84
Marc Jacobs || Ensemble, S/S 2016
Wild and Lethal Trash || Walter Van Beirendonck || S/S 1996
Mary Katrantzou || Ensemble, S/S 2011
Jeremy Scott || S/S 2011 || A prosciutto inspired dress, perhaps after the controversial Meat Dress by Franc Fernandez, which Lady Gaga wore at the 2010 MTV Video Music Awards; that dress was made from 40 pounds of flank steak, but Jeremy Scott’s one is an ‘elegant’ white and pink latex
Walter Van Beirendonck || Ensemble, S/S 2009 || Nude synthetic-spandex knit printed with a trompe l’oeil male body motif & Vivienne Westwood || Ensemble, A/W 1989-90 || Nude synthetic-spandex mesh, pink silk-synthetic satin, white synthetic lace, and red acrylic

“Camp transforms what was ugly yesterday into today’s object of aesthetic pleasure.” –Umberto Eco, 2007

From Camp: Notes on Fashion, The Costume Institute’s spring 2019 exhibition at The Met. Susan Sontag’s 1964 essay ”Notes on ‘Camp”’ provided the framework, and 250 objects dating from the seventeenth century to the present took care of the entertainment.

The Metropolitan Museum of Art

June 1st, 2019

Wearable Art

Taking its rightful place alongside more traditional forms of art.

Alessandro Michele (Italian, b. 1972) for Gucci
Ensemble F/W 2016


Stephen Jones (British, b. 1957)
”Show” Hat, F/W 2013 ”Art School”
Perspex Plexiglas


Deborah Williams Remington (American, 1930-2010)
Dover, 1975
Oil on canvas


Stephen Jones (British, b. 1957)
”Sewing” Hat, S/S 2018
Printed cotton with satin cord and metal bodkin


Rei  Kawakubo (Japanese, b. 1942)
Comme des Garçons, S/S 2018


Rei  Kawakubo (Japanese, b. 1942)
Comme des Garçons, S/S 2018


Rei  Kawakubo (Japanese, b. 1942)
Comme des Garçons, S/S 2018


Rei  Kawakubo (Japanese, b. 1942)
Comme des Garçons, S/S 2018


Viola Frey (American, 1933-2004)
Nude Man, 1989
Glazed ceramic


John Galliano (British, b. 1960) for Maison Margiela
Ensemble Fall 2018


Kehinde Wiley (American, b. 1977)
Marechal Floriano  Peixoto (from The World Stage: Brazil Series), 2009
Oil on canvas


Phoenix Art Museum

January 30th, 2019

A Heavenly Garden

Of Earthly Delights

Dolce & Gabbana
”Penelope” wedding ensemble, S/S 2013


Valentino
Evening dress, S/S 2014


Undercover, Jun Takahashi
Ensembles, S/S 2015, printed with iconography from Hieronymus Bosch’s triptych ”The Garden of Earthly Delights”


House of Dior
Raf Simons, Evening dress, A/W 2015-16
A more abstracted interpretation of Hieronymus Bosch’s painting ”The Garden of Earthly Delights”


Valentino
Evening Dress, A/W 2015-16


Jean Paul Gaultier
‘Lumiere’, Evening ensemble, S/S 2007


Steinunn Thorarinsdottir
Armors, 2016-2018


Rick Owens
Ensemble, A/W 2015-16.
With a pee(p) hole at the crotch, Owens’ playful,  subversive ”habit” evokes the popular literary stereotype of the lecherous, debauched and scandalous medieval monk, satirized by Geoffrey Chaucer in ”The Canterbury Tales” (1387-1400).


The Cloisters, Fort Tryon Park

July 14th, 2018

Heavenly Bodies || The Cloisters

Well, I don’t know about the bodies but some of the gowns were heavenly, indeed! The exhibition was two-part, the main segment being at The Met on Fifth Avenue, and an annex displayed at the medieval monastic environment of The Cloisters, where the gowns seemed to have found their natural habitat, as if they had always belonged there. If I had to describe the display, setting & ambience in one word, that would have been ”sublime”.

Viktor & Rolf, ensemble, 2018 original design: A/W 1999-2000


Valentino, evening ensemble, A/W 2015-16


Philip Treacy, ”Madonna Rides Again II” hats, 1998 – 2001


House of Chanel, wedding dress, A/W 1990-91 by Karl Lagerfeld


The Unicorn in Captivity
Wool, silk and silver and gilded-silver wrapped thread
South Netherlandish, ca. 1495-1505


Altarpiece with the Virgin and Child and Saints
Master fo the Burg Weiler Altarpiece
German, Swabia, ca. 1470

Reliquary busts of female saints
South Netherlandish, Brabant, possibly Brussels, ca. 1520-20


Valentino, red silk velvet dress, S/S 2015


Thom Browne, wedding ensemble, S/S 2018


Olivier Theyskens, evening dress, S/S 1999


House of Dior ”Hyménée” wedding dress by Marc Bohan, 2018; original design: S/S 1961


House of Balenciaga, wedding dress, spring 1967

Fashion history has designated this garment by Cristobal Balenciaga the ”one-seam wedding dress.” If the dress were indeed made from a single length of fabric, it would claim a biblical source: Jesus’ seamless robe at the Crucifixion. The dress, however, is made of two pieces of fabric stitched together and it has three shaping seams – two at the shoulder and one down the centre of the back.


Grisaille Panels
French, probably Normandy, ca. 1270-80


Jean Paul Gaultier
”Regina Maris” evening ensemble, S/S 2007


House of Dior
Ensemble, S/S 2006 by John Galliano


Book of Hours
Simon Bening (1483/84 – 1561)
Tempera, gold and ink on parchment
South Netherlandish, Bruges, ca. 1530 – 1535

This tiny Book of Hours is one of Simon Bening’s prayerful jewels, intended for use at regular intervals throught the twenty-four-hour day (ideally every three hours). It was a reminder of the omnipresence of God, meant to be attached to its owner, or stored with precious possessions.


Jean-Charles de Castelbajac
Chasuble for Saint John Paul II (reigned 1978-2005), 1997

This chasuble was created for Saint John Paul II to wear on World Youth Day in 1997.


The Cloisters, Fort Tryon Park

July 14th, 2018