Do you believe in fairy tales?

Once upon a time, there lived a man named Hugh. He was a good man who liked to build things with his hands. One day, it was the leap year 1924, Hugh came to Carmel to visit his sister. As his good fortune would have it, he met a woman named Mayotta. She was a good woman who liked to make things with her hands. Their lives met, their souls touched and, a year later, Hugh Comstock and Mayotta Browne become husband and wife. 

Mayotta was an artist who made little felt dolls she called the ”Otsy-Totsys”. She made more and more and then a few more, until there was no space left for the growing family in their home. Mayotta then asked her husband if he would build a doll house for her Otsy-Totsys. And so, Mayotta and Hugh, who were no architects nor designers but loved to make things with their hands, built the first wood cottage and named it Hansel. A little later, came Gretel and the rest followed in their gravel path.

Now, do you believe in fairy tales?

You can look for the real-life fairy tale cottages of Carmel on the Hugh Comstock Historical Hill District. Read more about them on this blog by Lynn Momboisse, who even went into the trouble of sketching a map, so you won’t miss even one!

And, if chasing fairy houses makes you hungry, Patisserie Boissiere is a mere magic wand’s flick away. The tale continues inside.

Carmel-by-the-Sea

July 10th, 2017

Bixby Creek Bridge

#iconic
#marvels_of_engineering
#mind_the_gap

The plan was to cross the Bixby bridge and continue to explore the magnificent Big Sur. Alas, it was not to be – a giant landslide had claimed a large part of the highway and access had been cut off, since May 2017. It took 14 months and $ 1 billion dollars worth of repairs, to finally re-open the highway in July 2018!

The Bixby bridge was still open, however, so we did cross it… for a mile or so and then we had to turn back. From here on, we would have to drive inland on 101, bypassing Big Sur until San Luis Obispo.

But, before that, there were other wonders to be discovered in the area around Monterey and Carmel-by-the-Sea, so let’s enjoy the breathtaking view from here, a little while longer.

July 10th, 2017

San Francisco is… walking the Bridge

After five wonderful days full of new impressions, it was time to bid farewell to San Francisco, in the best way possible – by walking the Bridge.

It took us a bit more than 1,5 hours to cross from Fort Point to Lime Point and back with all the stops – but it’s impossible not to stop, at least a dozen times, and watch the whales swim by or catch this glorious sunset painting the city in warm pastel colours. A truly unforgettable experience.

Walking the Golden Gate Bridge

July 8th, 2017

Haruko

Sometimes, in my dreams I am.
Chiura Obata (1885-1975)
Mother Earth, 1912 (reworked 1922, 1928)
Ink and colours on silk


Chiura Obata commenced this painting in 1912 as a portrait of his wife, Haruko, who had announced that she was pregnant with their first child. Obata reworked the painting in 1922, changing the title to Dusk in the High Sierra, and again in 1928, when he chose the final title, Mother Earth. The evolution of the title reveals Obata’s intention to endow his subject with greater resonance. The solitary female figure now serves as a universal personification of nature, fertility and maternity. The contrast between the giant, centuries-old redwood trees and the small seasonal flowers serves as a reminder of the cycles of nature – and of life itself.

Although Obata’s female model is Japanese, his universal title reflects his global perspective regarding nature and nationality: ”Above the border line of nationality everybody must feel a deep appreciation toward Mother Earth”. Obata’s timeless vision reaffirmed viewers’ perennial ties to nature in an increasingly technological age.

Treasures of the de Young

July 7th, 2017

San Francisco is… the stunning views from Lands End

As if 4000 years worth of art, a spectacular French-inspired building that resembles the Parisian Palais de la Légion d’Honneur (here’s that ”European” feel again), and interesting exhibitions like the Degas and Paris Millinery Trade we’d just seen were not enough, Legion of Honor sits high on the grounds of Lincoln Park, in a unique setting. To reach it, you have to walk (or drive) through a glossy, perfectly manicured golf course. And on your return, you can – no, you must, take one of the Lands End trails, walk past rocky cliffs, shady cypress and eucalyptus trees, cross paths with local runners, find your way around a stone labyrinth, descent to Mile Rock Beach or just let your eyes rest on some of the most stunning views of the Golden Gate Bridge and the ocean you could have wished for.

Lands End

July 7th, 2017

San Francisco is… going boating

Around Alcatraz…, where else?

One is spoiled for choice as far as cruises are concerned: Alcatraz tours by day or night, bridge-to-bridge ones, cruises for watching the sunset or whale-watching ones, you name it, chances are you can have it. We took the lazy one, that circles around Alcatraz and under the Golden Bridge. It was windy and brisk and the views were amazing.

San Francisco Bay Cruises

July 6th, 2017

San Francisco is… taking (the) steps

There are many ways to reach Coit Tower on top of Telegraph Hill. You can take the bus, your car or get on your feet for some excellent aerobic exercise – whatever works best. But the most scenic of all, must be ”The Steps”. There are numerous steps on different sides and levels of the hill, leading to the tower; the views here, are from The Greenwich Steps.

Another perspective of Coit Tower and the neighbourhood surrounding the hill. How amazing would it be to live there, don’t you find? Although, a bit of an ordeal when it’s your turn for that last-minute shopping… Greenwich Steps

July 5th, 2017

San Francisco is… Bullitt!

We watched Bullitt in preparation of the trip, just a few days before departure, so I was very excited to have spotted one of the filming locations very close to Alamo Square where we were staying. A brief 35 minute walk via Divisadero St. and its rather wonderful mansions, or 1.6 miles according to my web map.  What could be easier? Well, walking 35 minutes uptown hilly Manhattan, that’s what. For I still had to get to grips with the steepest streets I had ever encountered in a city, the very same that sent the cars flying in one of the most exciting car chases in film history(skip to 3:15 and buckle up).

We did make it, with a few extra huffs and puffs, to the gorgeous mansion atop the hill, where police detective Lieutenant Frank Bullitt (Steve McQueen) meets District Attorney Walter Chalmers (Robert Vaughn) at a reception at Chalmer’s residence.

A break for some extra cheesy pizza to treat ourselves, because what comes up must come down… and then all the way up again.

 Walking towards the mansion in the corner of Divisadero St. & Vallejo St., down to Lombard St. at Cow Hollow for a pizza and then back to Alamo Square Park to watch the 4th of July fireworks.

July 4th, 2017

San Francisco is… postcard-perfect

First port of call was Alamo Square with its incredibly charming, perfectly aligned pastel Painted Ladies; so perfectly pastel and aligned, I thought I had walked into a Wes Anderson film. Beyond them, San Francisco Downtown was beckoning. Excited as we were to discover it, it would have to wait because the Painted Ladies were only the start. For street after street, mansion after mansion, this entire district of San Francisco seemed to be a giant postcard.

It was a cool day with low clouds coming up from the East. Partly cloudy and grey but not dull at all. My eyes had yet to adjust to the light – so much different than in New York: similarly bright, but the dominant hues were blue, instead of the orange-yellow ones my eyes have been accustomed to. And, instead of being reflected on glass buildings, here the light was generously diffused, making objects seem sharper, colours brighter and the grass greener. Even on a cloudy day.

I would also have to adjust to the temperature, surprisingly cool – and I mean sweater and a light jacket cool – even in July. One tends to dream of sunshine and hot days on the beach when thinking of California, not this cool-summer-continental, one has learned to expect in Northern Europe.  

Walking from Alamo Square to the Pacific Heights, via Divisadero St. and its environs

July 4th, 2017