Items: Is Fashion Modern? @ MoMA

On October 1st, 2017, MoMA opened a new exhibition with the inquiring title ”Items: Is Fashion Modern?”, sparking waves of excitement across the worlds of fashion and design. Not so much because of the items themselves, which were mainly clothes and accessories we are all familiar with in our everyday lives, but mainly because ”Items” was the first fashion show that MoMA had organised in more than 70 years, the last time being in 1944 with a similarly inquiring exhibition, called ”Are Clothes Modern?”

The 2017 show consisted of 111 items of clothing and accessories that had had a strong impact on the world in the 20th and 21st centuries. It had also invited some designers, engineers, and manufacturers to reexamine these familiar items with the view of rendering them – or at least some versions of them – useful, updated and ”Modern” further into the future.

Robin From Skin Series, 2006
Tamae Hirokawa, Japanese, b. 1976 – Somarta, Japan, founded 2006
Tights

Somarta developed a computer-aided design and manufacturing process to produce seamless, three-dimensional knitted garments that are halfway between tattoos and tights


Le Smoking, 1967
Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche


StarckNaked, 1997
Philippe Starck for Wolford
Little Black Dress


Pia Interlandi, Australian, b. 1985
Garments for the Grave, founded 2012
Little Black (Death) Dress, 2017

Pia Interlandi’s Little Black Dress incorporates all of the classic principles of the LBD – versatility, sophistication and understated glamour – to form, in the words of the designer, a garment ”to carry one from this world to the next, a garment literally created for the grave.” The ensemble upends the traditional relationship between person and dress: its wearer participates in its creation but never sees herself wearing the final result; its major function is to shroud a lifeless body. Interlandi uses a fabric that is responsive to the touch of the hands of grieving loved ones, turning from black to white through the transfer of body heat. The act is a symbol of the energy embodied in the process of decomposition and the cycles of mourning, from despair to acceptance. Sandals, S/S 1996
Martin Margiela


Bernard Rudofsky, architect and designer, American, born Austria, 1905-1988

One of the items presented in the 1944 exhibition ”Are Clothes Modern?”. A statue representing what a female body should have looked like to match the fashion of that particular time in history. This one, the bustle of 1875, transformed its wearer into a four-legged centaur.


Boots, fall 2010
Noritaka Tatehana, Japanese, born 1985


Shoes, 1993
Andrew Buckler and Johanne Price, British


Boots, 1987
Vivienne Westwood


Boots made for Elton John, 1974
Unknown desinger


A-POC Queen, 1997
Issey Miyake & Dai Fujiwara

A-POC Queen is a textile generated from a single thread by a computer-programmed industrial knitting machine.  The customer can cut along the seams without destroying the tubular structure of each individual item, and virtually no material is wasted in the process of creating – without needle or thread – a complete monochromatic outfit from this single swath of cloth. Jumpsuit Specimen, 2017
Richard Malone, Irish, born 1990


Sleeping Bag Coat, designed 1973, manufactured 2017
Norma Kamali


Poster Dress, 1967
Harry Gordon, American, 1930-2007

Disposable paper dresses became widely available by 1966, eschewing tailoring and washability in favour of affordable, faddish designs. Graphic designer Harry Gordon released a series of poster shift dresses inspired by pop culture and politics, including a 1967 version with an image of Bob Dylan; the packaging encouraged buyers to repurpose it as a poster or pillow covers.


Bret.on 2017
Unmade, UK, founded 2014

Bret.on is a reinterpretation of the classic Breton shirt by the fashion technology company Unmade, which allows brands and individuals to create unique, customized knitted garments on an industrial scale.


Chinos, 2017
The Sartists, South Africa, founded 2013

A collective of young designers based in Johannesburg and Cape Town, The Sartists combine collaborative design processes, found materials, astute brand awareness and reflections on their country’s political history, namely apartheid and colonialism.


Safari jacket 1969-70 & Pantsuit S/S 1970
Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche


Suit, 1970
Bill Blass


Zoot suit, 1940-42
Unknown designer, U.S.A.


T-shirt 2017
Hanes


Ray-Ban Sunglasses, 1970s

When American test pilot Major Rudolph William ”Shorty” Schroeder injured his eye mid-flight in 1920, fellow pilot Lieutenant John Macready, alongside optical company Bausch & Lomb, designed googles to mitigate both frost formation and sunlight, aptly named Ray-Ban. These goggles in turn inspired the development of sunglasses branded the Ray-Ban Aviator in 1938.


MoMA, December 3rd, 2017

Infinity.dot.Mirror.dot.Rooms@David_Zwirner

The exhibition in Chelsea featured two new Infinity Mirror Rooms, one which could be seen through a peephole (below) and another, where the viewers could walk in (from which yesterday’s ”teaser” photos). There was also a red and white polka-dotted space and a larger one featuring sixty-six paintings from the artist’s iconic My Eternal Soul series and three large-scale flower sculptures.

Immerse into Yayoi Kusama’s mesmerizing, beautiful chaos. You may even discover a kind of order behind this explosion of colour, this pandemonium of patterns and shapes, this sensory overload.

After a while, it all starts to make sense. 

Festival of Life ran through a limited time only, in David Zwirner Chelsea concurrently with an exhibition of Kusama’s new Infinity Nets paintings, in their uptown location. We never made it to the latter.

December, 6th 2017

Let there be light

This is it friends – 2017 is almost over! It has been adequately bumpy and all kinds of weird and felt, at times, like going two steps back for every step forward but, on a personal level, it’s been a rather good year. So it is only fitting that we bid it adieu with a splash of colour from one of New York City’s most beautifully restored neighbourhoods, the South Sea Port historic district.

Fulton Street is glowing in a ”Sea of Light”, an installation that will run through March 2018.

Wavertree, the great sailing ship, is decorated with its own Christmas tree, as is tradition in maritime countries around the world.   Tonight, even the New York Central No. 31 railroad barge pilothouse is bathed in light. 

And so is the Titanic Memorial, the lighthouse erected in honour of the lives lost in the sinking of the Titanic.

From the iconic South Sea Port, my warmest wishes for a Happy, Healthy and Peaceful New Year!

May the light be with you always!

December 26th, 2017

Google play

It is a freezing end of year, here in New York City. We may not have seen much snow, but the weather forecast keeps making mention of an ”arctic chill” and warning merrymakers heading to Times Square to ring in 2018 that they are about to face one of the coldest ball drops on record this New Year’s Eve! As for me, I can barely move under multiple layers of clothes, undercoat, overcoat and headgear and nothing could make me withstand the Times Square agony. So why on earth was I lining up in the frigging cold outside the Google pop-up store, together with a bunch of youngsters half my age?

To meet this photogenic guy? Nope (sorry Chris)!

To play with the interactive pixel board? Nope, nope. 

To dive into the snow globe pool? Yaaaaas!! Because where else would I get to play Ophelia in the contemporary drama “Death by Selfie”? 

Because kids of all ages wanna have fun.

Made by Google pop up store will be open until December 31st.

December 26th, 2017

Christmas windows in the City

Holiday window displays in Manhattan are integrally connected with Christmas in the collective consciousness of New Yorkers – and in that of the regular, or even occasional visitors too. They’ve become part of the tradition, glitz and glamour and beauty of the holiday season and there just can’t be Christmas in the City without them.

Here, for instance, are some takes from Bergdorf Goodman’s breathtaking displays, inspired by some of the city’s most iconic institutions such as the American Museum of Natural History,  Museum of the Moving Image, The New York Botanical Garden, New York Philharmonic and New-York Historical Society (there are also windows for Brooklyn Academy of Music (BAM)  and UrbanGlass but I have no captures of them).

Entitled ”To New York with Love”, a celebration of the city’s ongoing love affair with arts, history and music, they are simply spectacular.


New York Philharmonic


The New York Botanical Garden


Museum of the Moving Image


American Museum of Natural History (and an avid admirer)


New-York Historical Society


And back to business with the commercial part and evening gowns – entrance in grand style guaranteed.


A ball in the Four Seasons, maybe? 


At which point I have to move on because I feel I’m turning green; head over heels (image from Elie Tahari)

Midtown Manhattan
December 17th, 2017