Up the St. Lawrence River from Gananoque to Heart Island

Up the St. Lawrence River, under the Thousand Islands Bridge, crossing the border to the U.S. long enough to go around Boldt Castle, on Heart Island. In season, boats stop and people can visit the castle, but in October it is already closed.

It was a melancholic sight, as it lay there empty, resting, nurturing its sad story: built at the whim of George C. Boldt, a Prussian-born self made millionaire, manager of the original Waldorf-Astoria in Manhattan, as a gift to his wife Louise, intended to be their summer home (!) Alas, Louise passed away suddenly, months before its completion. George, inconsolable, abandoned the castle and left the island, never to return. The castle remained unfinished, abandoned for 73 years…

St. Lawrence River

October 28th, 2017

Familiarising || Gananoque

First of all, with the name. Here I was, thinking all along it was pronounced Gan-a-nók (in my best French accent), until our host let us in with a ”welcome to Gan-ə-nok-way” and put an end to my ignorance.

The quietude and laid-backness. The locals taking a break from the summer madness, before winter kicks in.

The lack of tourists. There must have been no more than ten of us at the time.

Canadian politeness. Much more than just a cliché, Canadians make even road signs seem polite!

Gananoque, ON

October 28th, 2017

Sleeping with ghosts || Gananoque

Our trip continues around Lake Ontario to the ”Thousand Islands”, an archipelago of 1149 (official count) islands and islets, 665 of which are on the Canadian side and 484 on the American side. Their size ranges from a few square miles to mere rocks. Some are just large enough to accommodate a single house (and a tree); another, slightly larger rock, holds a fairy tale castle; a third one hosts a lighthouse; all of them are as picture-perfect as you can imagine – and then some.

But first things first: accommodation. We will stay on the Canadian side and lodge at The Sleepy Hollow, an atmospheric B&B in Gananoque we chose partly because of its name, considering we were approaching Halloween.

We knew we made the right choice when we were met by our tiny ghost friendly host who welcomed and showed us to our room, made sure we were comfortable and cosy, shooed all other house ghosts guests away so we could sleep quietly and made sure we woke up in time for breakfast.

Gananoque, ON

October 27th, 2017

Neontasmagoria

At night, the whole area along – and including – the falls, becomes a neon phantasmagoria.

 

The neon light show inside Galleria (shopping mall), mirrors that of the falls.

I wish I could have stayed awake to see whether the lights change all night.

I didn’t.

 

October 26th, 2017

Room with a View

Canada and the U.S. share the benefits of one of the world’s top tourist destinations with boat tours, walking tours, honeymoon packages, helicopter rides, resorts and casinos and all kinds of development to the detriment of the natural beauty of the environment but to the ultimate excitement of the millions of tourists that flock to Niagara Falls every year.

But for the best armchair views from your private booth you have to cross to Canada and book a ”falls view – high floor” room in one of the major chained-brand hotels that are lined along the Canadian side of the falls. The views are simply hypnotic.

Niagara Falls, ON, Canada

Buffalo State Asylum for the Insane

If Frank Lloyd Wright’s designs are a little too ”light” for your taste, may I suggest a walk around the massive Richardson Olmsted Campus. In its original version, the 1880 ”Buffalo State Asylum for the Insane” incorporated the then most enlightened humane principles in psychiatric treatment. Over time, as technology and mental health care advanced, patients were moved to a new facility in the 1970s and the complex was gradually abandoned.

After years of neglect the buildings are now being restored, having lost none of their imposing sturdiness. I think they would make the perfect set for a scary movie. It was a sunny day when we visited – just imagine how frightening they would seem in the dead of winter, wind howling and rain battering against those huge windows.

Here are some opening scenes from the scariest movie you’ve never seen…

… in b&w

… and in colour

Buffalo N.Y.

October 26th, 2017

The Darwin D. Martin House in Buffalo

Upstate New York may be home to numerous natural wonders but some of the man-made ones are also a sight to behold. Like, for instance, The Martin House, designed by Frank Lloyd Wright for wealthy Buffalo businessman Darwin D. Martin and his family between 1903-1905. It was our first real-life encounter with a Frank Lloyd Wright building, besides the Guggenheim in Manhattan.

The house is actually a complex, consisting of six interconnected buildings which include the main Martin House, a pergola that connects it to a conservatory and carriage house with chauffeur’s quarters and stables, the Barton House, a smaller residence for Martin’s sister and brother-in-law, and a gardener’s cottage added in 1909.

But Frank Lloyd Wright didn’t stop at the building. He went on to design – or, at least have the last word of approval for – everything in the Martin House; that includes the landscape, interior furnishings, light fixtures, art glass, and selections of artwork and artifacts for interior decoration.

Apropos of the art glass, there are 394 examples – some original pieces – of Frank Lloyd Wright-designed art glass in the complex, including the famed “Tree of Life” window.

But, perhaps, the most surprising fixture, one that I had never expected to encounter in a prairie house in Buffalo N.Y. – even one as prominent as The Martin House – was a cast of the Hellenistic sculpture of Nike or Victory of Samothrace – Νίκη της Σαμοθράκης. A cast so large, it is visible from the front door, some 180 feet away.

According to our guide, Nike was one of Wright’s favourite sculptures and copies can be found in many of his buildings. But only in the Martin House did he place one of such magnificent scale.

The Martin House is open to the public but can only be visited on a tour. There are different tours available, including a ”Photography” one (which we didn’t take). Otherwise, photography of the interiors is not permitted, save for the pergola leading to the statue of Nike.

Buffalo, N.Y.

Taughannock Falls

Walking along the ancient path carved through the mountain by water and time.

Air. Earth. Water. Fall. Waterfall. Taller than Niagara Falls, less voluminous after the drier summer months, nothing short of spectacular in the changing light at golden hour.

All images from the Taughannock Falls Gorge Trail, except the very first one, taken from the Overlook View Point.

Ulysses, N.Y. northwest of Ithaca.

October 25th, 2017